Yes, you can buy
shingles that are already attached to plywood sheets. These sheets are then
meant to fit together in an overlapping manner to give the appearance of a
shingled wall. I have only worked with this type of installation on an existing
structure that was finished in that manner. I was modifying some exterior walls
and I was able to remove the sheets of shingles and rework them back into the
reconfigured walls. From that perspective, they were great because I was able
to reuse the material and save the customer some money.
On every other project that had shingles on the exterior walls, I used
individual cedar shingles. Installing the individual shingles is a time
consuming task, but I think it looks better. Of course, most people would never
see the difference. If you are not willing to take the time to carefully layout
individual shingles, it might be better to go with the panels. I have never
done a cost analysis of the two methods, so I can't help with that.
When nailing shingles, you would normally use 5d (that's pronounced "5 penny"
not "5 Dee") siding nails. Siding nails are generally hot dipped galvanized,
but you should verify this. Don't use electro galvanized nails that will be
exposed. They will begin to rust the first winter here in the Pacific
Northwest, or anywhere that you can expect wet weather. If you are installing
individual shingles, all nails will be hidden except on the top (last) course.
The first course is nailed up with nails that are 1/2" above whatever your
exposure will be (usually 5" exposure) and 1/2" in from the edge of the
shingle. On exceptionally wide shingles, you can add a third nail in the
center. Next, you need to run a second layer over the first course so that all
the butt joints between the shingles are covered as well as all of the nails.
As you work your way up the wall, try to avoid lining up the joints between
shingles on any of three consecutive courses.
If you are installing sheets of shingles, I would recommend 7d siding nails.
You will want to locate the studs in the wall and place your nails so that they
go all the way through the sheet and into a stud. The bottom edge will of
course require surface nailing, a minor down side to using the manufactured
panels.
I would stick with cedar shingles over pine. Cedar has more natural ability to
withstand rot, and it just looks better. You may want to apply a clear finish
to let the natural beauty of the cedar come through. I have had success with a
product called CWF (Clear Wood Finish). Take a look at my
house
. The shingles around the upper portion were "painted" with CWF. If you really
want some color on the shingles, I would recommend a semi-transparent stain.
Solid colors have a tendency to fail after a few years and look shabby. If you
have to have solid color, make sure that the shingles are completely dry and
use a good quality primer.
One final thing to look for is the quality of the shingles. You should make
sure that the shingles you buy are band saw cut. Those cut with circular blades
will show the curving lines from the blade on the surface. The saw marks from a
band saw run straight across the surface and provide a much nicer finish.