A. Clear cedar, ah yes, there is nothing quite like clear western red cedar for beautiful outdoor projects. I spent several years working almost exclusively with cedar to build decks, hot tubs, trellises, screens and fences. Unfortunately, we are about at the end of the ancient trees that provide this magnificent material. These days, I spend more time with standing cedar (see www.HikerKen.com).

I am not sure that anyone is making cedar T1-11 these days. Clear cedar T1-11 would only have a thin veneer of cedar on the face. The sawn grooves would still expose the inner fir veneers. Take a look at my discussion of T1-11 if you haven't already. I would not recommend using a rough surface material like T1-11 in a bathroom, even with several coats of paint. You will be hanging towels next to the wall and the terry cloth will tend to snag on the rough surface.

If you are after an old wood panel sort of look, I would recommend bead board. This is a tongue and groove material that is usually milled with a round "bead" down the center and on one edge. The reverse side has a bevel on each edge. You can install it either way, depending on the look you are after. The boards are most often 1/2" thick and 3-1/8" wide. If you really want cedar, you should be able to find a similar material that is smooth on one side with the beveled edges and rough on the reverse side. You would see this installed (smooth side out) in a sauna.

I have installed bead board in several bathrooms. The look can be a bit over powering if the whole room is done with it. Usually we would use it as a wainscot with a trim band run across the top. Around here (the Pacific Northwest) you would buy bead board that is milled from hemlock (Hem fir) or Douglas fir. I spent a couple of years living in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and I did a family room for one customer with tongue and groove aspen that the owner had milled locally.

If you really want the look of T1-11 and the rough surface, you do not need to use cedar. You will be painting it, and it is all made with exterior grade adhesive, so I don't see any reason for the added expense of a cedar veneer. If it will be getting wet constantly, you will want to get a good seal where the panels overlap and where they meet the floor. In a bathroom, I like to run a good bead of silicone caulk behind the base shoe when I install it.

I don't usually make recommendations, but I did a lot of business over the years with Limback Lumber. This is a small local yard with a great selection of wood products and people that have been working there a long time. I don't know if they would ship to Arizona, but they may be able to give you some ideas if you've just got to have that cedar T1-11.